Generator Size Calculator
To size a generator, add up the running watts of everything you want to power at once, then add the extra starting watts of the single appliance that needs the biggest surge. The example list of 6 appliances runs on 2,340 W, and the refrigerator needs 1,000 W more to start, so the minimum generator size is 3,340 W. Allowing the generator to run at no more than 80% of its rating, a guideline rather than a rule, suggests about 4,175 W. Pick appliances from the list or type your own running and starting watts, set the quantity, and every figure, including amps at 120 and 240 volts, updates as you type.
Updated Runs in your browser: nothing you enter is uploadedHow this tool works
3,340 W
Minimum generator size: 2,340 W running plus 1,000 W for the largest start. About 4,175 W keeps the load at or below 80%.
| Appliance | Qty | Running | Extra to start |
|---|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator / freezer | 1 | 200 W | 1,000 W |
| Sump pump (1/3 HP) | 1 | 800 W | 500 W |
| Furnace fan (1/2 HP) | 1 | 800 W | 800 W |
| LED light bulb | 10 | 100 W | None |
| Television (46 inch flat screen) | 1 | 190 W | None |
| Laptop computer | 1 | 250 W | None |
- Total running watts
- 2,340 W
- Largest starting surge (extra)
- 1,000 W (Refrigerator / freezer)
- Minimum generator size (running + surge)
- 3,340 W
- Suggested size at 80% load
- 4,175 W
- Running load, amps at 120 V / 240 V
- 19.5 A / 9.8 A
- Minimum size, amps at 120 V / 240 V
- 27.8 A / 13.9 A
- Suggested size, amps at 120 V / 240 V
- 34.8 A / 17.4 A
Generator safety
- Carbon monoxide kills. Run a generator only outdoors, well away from the house (the CDC says at least 20 feet from doors, windows and vents), never in a garage, basement or other enclosed space, and use battery-operated CO alarms (CPSC, CDC).
- Never plug a generator into a wall outlet or the breaker panel (backfeeding). It can energize utility lines and hurt line workers. Use a transfer switch or interlock installed by a licensed electrician, or plug appliances straight into the generator.
The example load, appliance by appliance
| Appliance | Qty | Running | Extra to start |
|---|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator / freezer | 1 | 200 W | 1,000 W |
| Sump pump (1/3 HP) | 1 | 800 W | 500 W |
| Furnace fan (1/2 HP) | 1 | 800 W | 800 W |
| LED light bulb | 10 | 100 W | None |
| Television (46 inch flat screen) | 1 | 190 W | None |
| Laptop computer | 1 | 250 W | None |
| Total running watts | 2,340 W | ||
| Largest extra start (Refrigerator / freezer) | 1,000 W | ||
| Minimum generator size | 3,340 W |
Typical wattages used in the list
| Appliance | Running watts | Starting watts | Extra to start | Source and note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator / freezer | 200 | 1,200 | 1,000 | Honda. Honda: 132 to 192 W running, 1,200 W starting; upper end, rounded. |
| Sump pump (1/3 HP) | 800 | 1,300 | 500 | Honda. Honda chart, 1/3 HP. |
| Furnace fan (1/2 HP) | 800 | 1,600 | 800 | Champion. Champion: 300 to 800 W running, 800 to 1,600 W starting; upper end. |
| Window air conditioner (10,000 BTU) | 1,500 | 2,200 | 700 | Honda. Honda figure as quoted in search results, not read on the chart itself. Window units vary widely (about 700 to 1,300 W running, 2,000 to 3,000+ W starting): use the nameplate. |
| Well pump (1 HP) | 1,000 | 2,000 | 1,000 | Champion. Champion: 1,000 to 2,000 W running, 2,000 to 4,000 W starting; low end used, so check the nameplate. |
| Microwave oven | 1,000 | 1,000 | 0 | Champion. Champion: 600 to 1,200 W, no extra starting surge. |
| LED light bulb | 10 | 10 | 0 | Bulb label. Honda says to use the wattage printed on the bulb; 10 W is a common LED. |
| Incandescent light bulb | 60 | 60 | 0 | Bulb label. Use the wattage printed on the bulb. |
| Television (46 inch flat screen) | 190 | 190 | 0 | Honda. Honda chart, 46 inch flat screen. |
| Laptop computer | 250 | 250 | 0 | Honda. Honda (New Zealand) chart. |
| Space heater (high setting) | 1,500 | 1,500 | 0 | Product label. Portable electric heaters are commonly rated up to 1,500 W; a resistive load with no surge. |
Watts to amps at 120 and 240 volts
| Watts | Amps at 120 V | Amps at 240 V |
|---|---|---|
| 1,000 W | 8.3 A | 4.2 A |
| 2,000 W | 16.7 A | 8.3 A |
| 3,500 W | 29.2 A | 14.6 A |
| 5,000 W | 41.7 A | 20.8 A |
| 7,500 W | 62.5 A | 31.3 A |
How headroom changes the suggested size
| Maximum continuous load | Suggested generator size |
|---|---|
| 100% | 3,340 W |
| 90% | 3,712 W |
| 80% | 4,175 W |
| 70% | 4,772 W |
How to size a portable generator
- List what you must power. Choose an appliance from the list and press Add, or add a blank row and type your own. Only include what must run at the same time; a load you can switch off while another runs does not need to be counted.
- Check the running and starting watts. Look at the nameplate or manual. A motor such as a refrigerator compressor or sump pump draws more to start than to run: the typical refrigerator here runs at 200 W and starts at 1200 W. Leave starting watts blank for loads with no surge, such as lights.
- Set the quantity. Running watts are multiplied by the quantity. The example has 10 LED bulbs at 10 W each.
- Read the minimum size. The calculator adds all running watts (2,340 W) and the largest single extra starting wattage (1,000 W, from the refrigerator / freezer) for 3,340 W.
- Allow some headroom. A common guideline is to load a generator to no more than about 80% of its rating for continuous use. For the example that suggests 4,175 W. Change the percentage to see other values, then round up to the next generator size sold.
Frequently asked questions
- How do I calculate what size generator I need?
- Add the running watts of every appliance that will run at the same time, then add the largest extra starting wattage among them (its starting watts minus its running watts). For the example that is 2,340 W plus 1,000 W, or 3,340 W. Then choose a generator with a running (rated) wattage at or above that figure.
- What is the difference between running watts and starting watts?
- Running (rated) watts are what an appliance draws continuously. Starting (surge) watts are a brief, higher draw when a motor or compressor starts; electric motors can need roughly two to three times their running watts to start. The typical refrigerator / freezer here runs at 200 W and starts at 1200 W, and the sump pump (1/3 hp) runs at 800 W and starts at 1300 W. Lights, TVs, laptops and heaters have little or no surge.
- Why add only the largest starting surge?
- The standard method assumes motors do not all start in the same instant. The generator must carry everything already running plus the biggest start, so the calculator adds the single largest extra wattage once. If several large motors may start together, for example after power returns, size above this minimum or use a soft-start device.
- Why does the calculator suggest more than the minimum?
- Running a generator near its limit leaves no margin if a wattage is underestimated, and the engine runs hard. As a guideline, many people size so the continuous load is at most about 80% of the rating: 3,340 W becomes 4,175 W. At 90% it would be 3,712 W and at 70% 4,772 W. This is guidance, not a manufacturer rule; follow your generator's manual.
- How many amps is my load at 120 and 240 volts?
- Amps are watts divided by volts. The example minimum of 3,340 W is 27.8 A at 120 V and 13.9 A at 240 V. Each 120 V receptacle on a generator has its own amp limit, so also check that no single outlet or circuit is overloaded.
- How much do heavy loads add to the size?
- A window air conditioner (typically 1500 W running, 2200 W starting) added to the example raises the minimum from 3,340 W to 4,840 W, and a space heater on high (1500 W) adds its full 1500 W with no surge. Electric heating and air conditioning are the loads that most often decide the generator size.
- Where do the typical wattages come from?
- From generator wattage charts published by Honda and Champion Power Equipment, rounded. Charts differ from one another, and some give ranges, so the table on this page says which end was used. They are typical values, not specifications of your appliance. Every number in the calculator can be edited, and the nameplate (or volts times amps) is the better source.
- Can I plug a generator into a wall outlet or my panel?
- No. Feeding a generator into a home outlet or panel (backfeeding) can send power out onto the utility lines and endanger line workers and neighbors, and can damage the generator or wiring. Plug appliances directly into the generator with suitable extension cords, or have a licensed electrician install a transfer switch or interlock that meets local code.
- Is it safe to run a generator in a garage or near a window?
- No. Generators produce carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless gas that can kill within minutes. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and the CDC say to run a generator only outdoors, well away from the house (the CDC says at least 20 feet from doors, windows and vents), never in a garage, basement or enclosed space, and to use battery-operated carbon monoxide alarms. Opening doors or windows does not make indoor use safe.
- Is anything I type stored or sent?
- No. The calculation runs in your browser and nothing you enter leaves your device.
How it works
Each row contributes quantity times running watts to the running total. A row’s extra starting watts are its starting watts minus its running watts; if starting watts are left blank, or are lower than running watts, no extra is counted. The surge added to the total is the largest single extra among rows with a quantity above zero, counted once, because the standard method assumes motors start one at a time. The minimum generator size is the running total plus that surge. The suggested size is the minimum divided by the chosen maximum continuous load (default 80%, allowed 50 to 100%), rounded up to a whole watt; the percentage is guidance and not taken from a standard. Amps are watts divided by 120 or 240 volts with the power factor taken as 1, so real amps for reactive loads can be somewhat higher. Typical wattages are rounded figures from published Honda and Champion charts, are starting points only, and are not specifications of any particular appliance. Generator ratings are also reduced at altitude and in heat, and surge capacity differs between models. This tool does not replace an electrician’s load calculation. Everything runs in your browser and nothing you type is sent anywhere.
Sources
- Honda Power Equipment, What Wattage Generator Do I Need? (wattage estimation guide)
- Honda (New Zealand), Wattage Estimation Guide
- Champion Power Equipment, Generator Wattage Chart
- U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Hurricane safety (generator and carbon monoxide guidance)
- CDC, Avoiding Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
More free tools
- Voltage Drop CalculatorEstimate voltage drop in volts and percent for copper or aluminum wire, single or three phase, and find the smallest AWG size that stays within 3% or 5%.
- Wire Size CalculatorFind the smallest copper or aluminum wire size for a load: checks NEC ampacity, the 240.4(D) small-wire limits and voltage drop, and shows which governs.
- Unit ConverterConvert length, area, volume, weight and temperature with exact factors, plus cubic yards, tons and bags for gravel, soil, sand and concrete.
- Gas Mileage & Fuel Cost CalculatorWork out a trip’s fuel and cost, your mileage from a fill-up, or convert MPG (US and UK), L/100 km and km/L. Split the cost between people.
- Electricity Cost CalculatorFind what an appliance or a list of appliances costs to run: kWh and cost per day, month and year from watts (or amps and volts), hours and your rate.
- Conduit Fill CalculatorCheck how many wires fit in EMT, rigid, PVC or flexible conduit under NEC Chapter 9: fill percent, pass or fail, and the most of one wire size that fits.