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Board and Batten Calculator: Batten Spacing and Boards to Buy

A 12 ft wide, 8 ft tall wall with 1 × 4 battens (3.5 in wide), a batten in each corner and a 16 in target gap needs 9 boards of 8 ft (8 battens of 96 in, plus 5% spares). The 8 battens leave 7 equal gaps of 16 9/16 in (16.57 in, 421 mm), so they sit 20 1/16 in on center. The wall is 96 sq ft; for paint, use the wall paint calculator.

Figures based on the sources listed belowUpdated How we calculate

Spare boards (your choice)
The width across the face, not the nominal size: a 1 × 3 is 2 1/2 in wide and a 1 × 4 is 3 1/2 in, both 3/4 in thick.
By spacing, the calculator picks the number of battens nearest your gap. By number, you choose the count and it works out the gap.

The clear space between battens you would like; 12 to 24 in is the usual range. The real gap is a little over or under it because the battens are a whole number.
Yes puts a batten against each corner or trim, so the gaps run between battens. No leaves a gap at each end, one more gap than battens.
A rail across the top of the battens, cut to the wall width and packed onto stock boards with the battens.
The length you will buy. Pieces are packed onto boards of this length, so a short wall gets several battens from one board. A batten longer than the board is joined from two.

Buy 9 boards.

Buy 9 boards

64 linear ft + 5% waste = 67.20 linear ft

  • Battens: 8 battens, 7 gaps, a batten at each end
  • Actual gap: 16 9/16 in (16.57 in, 421 mm)
  • On-center spacing: 20 1/16 in (20.07 in, 510 mm)
  • First batten: edge at the corner (centre 1 3/4 in), then every 20 1/16 in
  • Batten length: 96 in (96 in, 2,438 mm), less any top rail or baseboard it butts
  • Boards (1 × 8 ft): 9 boards
  • Cut list (first-fit, inches): 8 × 96 in (before spares)
  • Wall area (for paint): 96 sq ft of wall, plus about 8 sq ft for the batten edges; see the wall paint calculator
How this number is calculated

64 linear ft + 5% waste = 67.20 linear ft ÷ 7.47 linear ft per board = 9 boards

Shopping list

  • 1 × 3 primed boards
  • 1 × 4 primed boards
  • Brad nailer (18 gauge)
  • Paintable caulk
  • Laser level
  • Stud finder
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Battens and actual gap, 8 to 16 ft walls

1 × 4 battens (3.5 in wide), a batten in each corner, worked by this calculator for the target gap in each column. The actual gap is to the nearest 1/16 in; the count is the whole number of battens nearest the target.
Wall widthBattens at 16 inGapBattens at 20 inGapBattens at 24 inGap
8 ft615 in519 5/8 in427 5/16 in
10 ft715 15/16 in619 13/16 in525 5/8 in
12 ft816 9/16 in719 15/16 in624 5/8 in
14 ft917 1/16 in820 in723 15/16 in
16 ft1115 3/8 in920 1/16 in823 7/16 in

Methodology & assumptions

Let W be the wall width in inches (corner to corner, or trim to trim), w the batten width and s the gap you would like between battens. With a batten at each end, the gaps run between battens, so n gaps = (W − w) ÷ (w + s), rounded to the nearest whole number (at least 1), and there are n + 1 battens. With no end battens, each end has a gap open to the corner, so b battens leave b + 1 gaps, and b = (W − s) ÷ (w + s), rounded to the nearest whole number (at least 1). If you lay out by a number of battens instead, your count fixes the gaps (one fewer than the battens with end battens, one more without). The equal gap is then (W − battens × w) ÷ gaps, the same equal-gap arithmetic as the baluster spacing calculator, and the on-center spacing is the gap plus w. Rounding to a whole number of battens means the real gap is a little over or under your target; it is the nearest layout, not the largest gap that stays under it. With end battens the first batten’s edge is at the corner (its centre w ÷ 2 from it); without them the first edge is one gap from the corner (centre gap + w ÷ 2), and each next batten is one on-center step further. Each batten is cut to the wall height you enter; trim it to fit under a top rail or above a baseboard. The optional top rail is one board across the wall width. Pieces longer than the stock board are made from full boards plus a remainder, which means a joint, and then all pieces are packed onto stock boards of your length, longest first, each on the first board with room (first-fit decreasing), with no allowance for saw kerf; the spares you choose (0, 5 or 10%) are added to that board count and rounded up. The paintable-area line is the wall width × height plus the edges of the battens (two edges of each, at 3/4 in thick, the actual thickness of a 1-by board); it is not paint math, and it leaves out the faces of the top rail, caulk lines and the back of the battens. The metric toggle shows lengths in m and the target gap and custom width in cm; gaps are also shown in inches and millimetres.

How to space board and batten

  1. Measure the wall. Measure the wall width between the corners or trim, and the height the battens will cover. Check the actual width of the batten you will buy.
  2. Count the battens. With a batten in each corner, divide the wall width less one batten by the batten width plus your target gap, round to a whole number of gaps, and add one for the battens.
  3. Work out the equal gap. Gap = (wall width − battens × batten width) ÷ gaps. On-center spacing = gap + batten width.
  4. Mark and fix the battens. Mark the centres from the corner, or use a spacer cut to the gap, and fix each batten plumb. Check the last one at the far corner before fastening the first few.
  5. Cut and buy. Cut every batten to the wall height, plus a top rail if you have one, and pack the cuts onto stock boards to see how many to buy.

Worked examples

ProjectResult
12 × 8 ft wall, 1 × 4 battens, 16 in target gap, a batten in each corner, 5% spares8 battens, 7 gaps of 16 9/16 in, 20 1/16 in on center, 9 boards of 8 ft
10 ft wide, 4 ft tall wainscot, 1 × 3 battens, 12 in target gap, a top rail, 5% spares9 battens at a 12 3/16 in gap, a 10 ft rail, 7 boards of 8 ft (1 × 96 in; 4 × 48 in + 48 in; 1 × 48 in + 24 in before spares)
11 × 8 ft wall, 1 × 4 battens, 18 in target gap, no battens at the ends, no spares5 battens, 6 gaps of 19 1/16 in, 5 boards of 8 ft
9 × 8 ft wall, 1 × 4 battens, 6 battens chosen by number, a batten in each corner, no spares6 battens, 5 gaps of 17 3/8 in, 20 7/8 in on center, 6 boards of 8 ft

Frequently asked questions

How do I space board and batten evenly?
Measure the wall width, pick a batten width and the gap you like, then work out the whole number of battens that comes closest and spread the leftover evenly. For a 12 ft (144 in) wall of 1 × 4 battens (3.5 in) with a 16 in gap and a batten in each corner: (144 − 3.5) ÷ (3.5 + 16) = 7.2, so 7 gaps and 8 battens. The equal gap is (144 − 8 × 3.5) ÷ 7 = 16.57 in, 16 9/16 in on a tape, and the battens sit 20 1/16 in on center.
How far apart should the battens be?
It is a design choice. Tutorials commonly use gaps of about 12 to 24 in, with 12 to 16 in the most usual and wider gaps looking more subtle. Closer battens give a busier, more textured wall and need more boards. This calculator takes whatever target you enter and says what the real gap comes to.
What size are 1 × 3 and 1 × 4 battens really?
A 1 × 3 is 3/4 in thick and 2 1/2 in wide, and a 1 × 4 is 3/4 in thick and 3 1/2 in wide, the actual sizes after the board is dried and planed. Use the actual width, not 3 or 4 in. Pick Custom width for a 1 × 6 (5.5 in), a ripped strip or an MDF or PVC batten of another size, and measure the one you buy.
Should there be a batten at each end of the wall?
Most walls get one in each corner, or against the trim at a door or window, so the pattern looks finished. Choose No if the battens should stop short of the corners, leaving a gap at each end: there is then one more gap than there are battens, so the same wall can take a batten fewer. A 11 ft wall with an 18 in target and no end battens has 5 battens and 6 gaps of 19 1/16 in.
Why is the actual gap not the gap I typed?
Because battens come in whole numbers. The calculator picks the whole number of battens nearest your target and spreads the leftover space evenly, so the real gap is a little over or a little under it, and the table on this page shows how much for common walls. If you need a gap that is never over some size, type a smaller target, or choose to lay out by number of battens.
How do I lay out the battens on the wall?
Mark the centre of each batten from one corner with the on-center spacing (20 1/16 in in the example), starting at half a batten width from the corner when there is a batten in the corner. Or cut a spacer to the gap (16 9/16 in in the example) and hold it between neighbours. Check that the last one lands on the far corner before you fix the first few, and check each batten with a level. Battens fixed with brad nails into drywall alone hold a thin trim; fixing into studs or adhesive is the stronger choice, and the layout does not have to land on studs for that.
How are the boards and cut list worked out?
Every batten is cut to the wall height, so a stock board of 8 ft (96 in) makes one 8 ft batten and nothing for short walls: a 4 ft wall takes two battens from each 8 ft board. The calculator packs the pieces onto stock boards, longest first, each on the first board with room. A 10 ft wide, 4 ft tall wall with 1 × 3 battens, a 12 in gap and a top rail needs 9 battens of 48 in plus a 120 in rail, which is 6 boards of 8 ft before spares: 1 × 96 in; 4 × 48 in + 48 in; 1 × 48 in + 24 in. A wall taller than the board is joined from two pieces; a 9 ft wall on 8 ft boards, for example, needs 9 boards for 8 battens.
Do the battens go on top of a top rail?
It depends on the design: the rail can sit on top of the battens, or the battens can butt up under it. Both are used. The calculator cuts every batten to the full wall height and one rail to the wall width, so for battens that stop under a rail, subtract the rail’s width from the batten length, and for a rail that sits on the battens, keep the full length. The board count changes only when the cut list does.
How much paint do I need?
This calculator shows only the area: the 12 × 8 ft example is 96 sq ft of wall, plus about 8 sq ft for the batten edges (2 edges of each batten, 3/4 in thick). Use the wall paint calculator for gallons, and remember that battens, caulk and a second coat on a textured pattern use more than a flat wall. The area on this page is not a coverage estimate.
How many extra boards should I buy?
It is your choice: none (0%), a few spares (5%) or 10%. The count is already packed to the board, so the spares are for crooked or damaged boards and mistakes. Primed MDF and finger-jointed boards tend to be straighter than pine, which is worth knowing when you decide.

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